WHĀNAU KĀKAHU

Ka mua ka muri
I walk backwards into the future

This outfit is a physical representation of colonisation in Aotearoa. My goal in this project was to depict the marriage between Nations, and the reclaiming of the land by Māori. I wanted to implement as many traditional practices as possible, staying true to authentic rituals to uphold my culture. The design is that of an 1830’s British wedding dress, layered with a hand-woven traditional Kahu Huruhuru. The Queen Victoria-esque wedding dress is a symbol of the forced integration of the British Empire and Tangata Whenua centuries ago, when interracial marriages were strictly a means of establishing a trade relationship. The Kahu Huruhuru or Kākahu is a representation of Mana and Kaitiakitanga, as well as a devoted resilience to fight for our culture. Through centuries of oppression, Māori still stand with unwavering confidence on our Tūrangawaewae.

My final design represents the violent mergence of cultures and forced assimilation. As a result, I produced this historically inspired wedding gown layered with a striking Kahu Huruhuru. It was also vital to me that I applied Mātauranga Māori regarding sustainability in this outfit by only using natural resources. Since my culture has such a deep-rooted connection to the land, it was necessary for the whole look to be able to return to the Earth when the time comes. This means sourcing organic cotton alongside other natural materials. I wanted to take this concept of Kaitiakitanga further and personally source all the feathers from pests or game birds, whether introduced to our shores through means of colonisation, or species which have thrived as such. Through the process of making a traditional Kākahu using pest feathers, it is a form of taking back and reclaiming our culture, even though it was forced through vicissitude. I wanted to implement as many traditional practices as possible when making this Taonga, so sourcing the feathers from birds myself and hand-plucking them was an excellent way to channel my culture. Each strand of this Kākahu has been hand-woven with great precision and an eye for authenticity.

This entire process was very spiritual and enlightening for me, as I deep dived and explored both of my conflicting cultures. This look is a tribute to all my ancestors that came before me, and all the people who will come after.

Photography by Jimmy-Lee Wilson